INTO AFGHANISTAN WITH BOB DYLAN, 1976

DIARY OF AN 18 YEAR-OLD: THE FIRST IN A SELECTION OF POSTS FROM MY OVERLAND ADVENTURE TO KATHMANDU IN 1976 – TAKEN FROM MY DIARY

[This day saw our arrival in Afghanistan via the high Khojak Pass at Chaman - an age-old trading, smuggling and invading route.  My first impression of Afghanistan was of the starkly beautiful landscape and evening skies.  I remember entering Kandahar after nightfall and being entranced by the rows of open-fronted shops lit up by oil lamps; horses eating and snorting contentedly in the chill evening air.  We stayed at a cheap, hotel with groovy music where the friendly staff lent us heavy black woollen blankets - I've never come across such warm ones again.  Over the years I've watched the news of Kandahar being bombed, captured and reduced in parts to rubble, and grieved for this place and the people who were kind to us.  I still hold onto my memory of a magical winter evening there - my first night in Afghanistan]

SATURDAY 20TH NOVEMBER, 1976

“Left Quetta early, headed for Afghan border.  Had breakfast on outskirts of small village.  Shirley was shown round the prison!  Climbed to Spin Boldak – stark hills covered in shale.
3 checks on Pakistani side of border and 2 on Afghan side – had to fill in loads of forms, while officials scribbled what we’d declared into our passports.

A real character of a moneychanger – very bossy but rather friendly and open – was in charge of stamping forms and made a mess rather like a big thumb print (must be stuck for things to say in mine!)

Afghan scenery – flat plains surrounded by dark barren mountains – really impressive in the evening sun – dramatic clouds with bright yellow sky behind grey-purple hills.  Then a fantastic crimson sunset across the plain.
Reached Kandahar – six of us dossed in a room (a floor same as camping rates).  At the moment am sitting in the eating room of hotel listening to Bob Dylan’s Greatest Hits and writing this (obviously!)  Room decorated with streamers and pop posters – quite a few young Europeans etc eating here.  Neva and I had a chat with 2 American girls – next to them were some Dutch blokes.  Chatted with an Irishman, Italian and Frenchman!
Super warm night on floor of hotel room.”

Is It Really Thirty Five Years?

How time flies when you’re having fun! Thirty five years ago I had just returned from a trip of a lifetime.

Three months overland by bus from London to Kathmandu – a trip that became the seed that grew into The Vanishing of Ruth.

Arriving in Kathmandu I discovered there was no air ticket home so had to spend the last of my money going to Delhi were it was supposed to be waiting. In those days you couldn’t just slap down your plastic and get on the next available flight! Luckily a friend from the trip, Nikki, was in the same position as – guess what? – when we got to Delhi just before New Year, there were no tickets there either!

It took 2 weeks of excitements, tears and strange encounters before we managed to get flights home – but that’s another story! From my diary:

WEDNESDAY 12TH JANUARY, 1977

“Up at 4.0!  Packed and had toast and coffee.  John drove me in the bus; had tea at airport – checked in.  Unclaimed black bag near us!  We told 4 people, including Security, but not bothered!  John and Bob are taking the bus off today – making for Europe in 4 weeks – will be freezing trip eg Turkey minus 40 degrees at night!  Offered me a lift back and pay at other end if got stuck – nearly had to take it!

Security checks etc – finally on plane.  Next to nice ex-British Council man (like Hoppy [Canon Hopkins of Durham Cathedral] though not quite as vague!)  accompanying nice little lad back to school.  Told him of my adventure – he took half of journey working out the length of the journey!

Stopped at Barhain - swarthy blokes with cloths wrapped round heads and in jumpsuits came on board – no not a high-jack – they were the cleaners!  From plane saw Gulf and flat beaches, low buildings – all very oily and drab.  Landed at Damascus - armed guard, took ages for people to board.  Flat wasteland all around; but when took off saw great snow-capped mountains - flew over Lebanon and then Turkey.

Landed at Heathrow an hour late – journey taken about 13 and a half hours!  At Heathrow after customs etc, got bus to Terminus 1 and picked up money plus ticket for Newcastle.  Missed original flight.  Suddenly theloudspeaker boomed my name and ordered me to Information; feeling important but afraid I went – it was Mum and Dad wondering why I wasn’t on plane!  I must be the most well-known lost traveller in the whole air flight business!

Had much needed half pint.  Plane late (so what’ new!)  Onto plane finally - ordered Martini and fell asleep, woke to hear we’re about to land!  No time for drink.  Hostress asked me if I was feeling alright.

Dad and Don [eldest brother] to greet me – in their Russian coats!  Snow thick on ground.  As drove home – told of great Delhi saga!  Mum and Barbara [sister-in-law] waiting.  Don and Barbara opened champagne for me.  Debbie [school friend] rang!  Flowers from Jock [Durham friend] and card from “the whole damn bunch”!  Torq [brother] phoned; just missed them.  Phoned Rory and Uncle Donald.

Wine with slap-up meal.  Gave presents – much concern over beedies - obviously hash at least.  Don said when you get to the string you bail out!  (Dad smoked the wrong end!)  After 26 hours finally fell into bed!  Adventure over !!!”