SATURDAY 6TH NOVEMBER, 1976
“Lovely sunrise. Lots of kids came to watch us with great amusement.
Shopping stop at Hamadan – oldest city in Iran. Lots of bananas! Wandered round market with Sally, Fran and Adrian. Saw them making kidney kebabs; bought little buns. Looked in ceramic shop – lovely cups and jugs.
Afternoon stop at Arak. Newspaper bought – Carter President of U.S. – first news for weeks!
Incredible amount of western shops. Went into one that sold peanut butter – about £1 for tiny jar. All products were British and foreign, like being back in Britain – even had Coleman’s Mustard!
Stopped at sunset by the road to have supper before driving on. Sat at front seat changing tapes while everyone else slept. Cay stop at bus terminus to Tehran – not very nice, but cafe was warm and pleasant. Second stop at row of shops open late – bought nuts and nougat. People watching telly in big cay/restaurant place.
Camped at midnight on large plain off the road – not much loo coverage. Made cup of tea and burnt some wood and bush.”