BUDDAHS IN BAMIYAN – CAT STEVENS & CAKE IN KABUL, 1976

[FOOD!  On the road, camping wild, we cooked up an awful lot of vegetable soup and stew – cabbage featured heavily and seemed to grow bigger the further east we went.  So eating locally was usually a treat – and the sweet pastries and puddings from Paris to Kathmandu were reason enough to follow the hippy trail.  I don’t think I’ve tasted such good yoghurt as in Bamiyan – and the cake in Kabul  – I couldn’t resist even when feeling sick.  Read below for a tasty idea!]

WEDNESDAY 24TH NOVEMBER, 1976

“Woke to the sound of one fella stoking the boiler and the pleasant sweet smell of woodsmoke.  People began to stir and order tea.  Had a “bolled” egg for breakfast!  Lazed around foa a while because so warm.

Then went out for a walk with Jan and Sue.

Really beautiful clear crisp morning.  Walked up by cliffs – followed solemnly by 3 sheep with huge swinging backsides.  Someone hammering in village caused an echo which sounded as if someone was working inside the cliff – really weird.
Gorgeous sun spilling over snowy mountains – a line of horses strapped to open carts, eating out of bags.
Met women and kids asking for matches – one carrying little baby wrapped in tight cloth – eyes clogged with black dust.
Went back to hotel and had a yoghurt with nuts and raisins!  Left mid morning, with extra passengers for Kabul.  Back down same road – lovely views again.  Hit a wall trying to avoid hole at side of road!  Saw line of goats coming down almost sheer cliff side.
Stopped for lunch late on, at the village on hill again – had cay at side of tiny square.  People off a bus at side of road got out and prayed.

Back to Mustafa hotel for welcome shower after dusty ride – still coughing from dust.  Went with Diane and Marie to Sigis Restaurant – nice setting around an open courtyard where a huge game of chess under floodlight was set up.  Sat on floor at tiny tables listening to Cat Stevens and Deep Purple.  Nearly deserted – were eventually only ones left – turned off heater too.  Had rather cold omlette.
Then went to Istanbul Restaurant for sweet.  Had gorgeous big chunk of cake (sponge with chocolate type topping with raisins and grapefruit segments)  Two musicians playing away with waiter contorting his hands!
Felt sick (did before meal).

Back to hotel – listened to Dylan in dining room before went to bed (cup of coffee).”

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