Cool Camping, hot cay and a silver moon over Western Iran, 1976

FRIDAY 5TH NOVEMBER, 1976

I’m the chef so it must be porridge?!

Freezing morning – hands nearly dropped off.  Same scenery – plains and hill ranges.
Sat at front for first time!
Stopped for shopping at Sanandaj.  Lots of men dressed in Kurdish costume – super turbans with tassles, cummerbunds etc.  Had cay in place where men were smoking hubble-bubble pipes.  On walls were pictures of the Shah and Empress and carpets with Mecca depicted.

Walked around – saw bread being made.  Big vat of dough – first man shaped in into rounds, second man rolled them out, third man slapped them around and spread on padded sack, then bashed them onto sides of oven until slightly brown, then sold thin wafery bread straight away.
Policeman chased people away from the bus.

Diana did a headstand in a cornfield, so I had a go – managed a quick one before keeled over!  Lunch stop by a river – had a paddle – very cold and refreshing.

Cay stop by wayside – people sitting crosslegged under trees.  Sat outside – loads of cay and great argument over prices, so probably half not paid for.

Camped near Kermanshah.  Lovely sunset over hills – orangy-yellow, with pinky violet sky in east over light brown hills with a big silver moon rising.  Camped off road near little village under a hill.  Locals (or lurcals) came to inspect us again.”